Malawi Andy

Tuesday, April 12, 2005

Nkhota Kota: The Minibus

    While the sisters allow us to use their truck for trips to the market, it wasn't available for the length time we needed to go to Nkhota Khota (I just really like that name) so the next best option was the minibus.  The minibus system isn't exactly a well organized or smooth operation, but we have a minibus depot here in Balaka so it is pretty easy to get around with.  On our way to the bus station, we passed a bus just leaving and the driver shouted to us the direction he was headed.  We gave him a nod that we were interested and I guess he was anxious to pick up five extra passengers because he veered off the road into the curb.  It was all for nothing since we decided to find another bus after the display of his driving skills.  The buses line up at the station next to the signs of their destination while the drivers and a co-pilot shout out where they are headed.  You find the bus you want, negotiate a price, and wait for it to leave.  There is no set schedule.  They just leave whenever they get enough passengers.  It could be 15 minutes or if you are with us you'll probably wait an hour.  While waiting to leave vendors descend on the station selling drinks, newspapers, eggs, potatoes, peanuts, and just about anything else.  The same goes for any town or village it stops at along the way.  Kids and some adults crowd around the bus trying to sell things.  One of the passengers on our bus was kind enough to buy a few fish for the long, hot, crowded journey.  Passengers are picked up and dropped off all along the route.  I don't know if the bus was ever actually "full" because as long as someone were willing to squeeze in, we found a place for him.  We counted up to 28 people on a bus that was supposed to be limited to 23 and probably less than 20 if it were in the U.S.  Of course we were counting kids, and they tuck under the seat pretty easily.  At one point, there was a live chicken but we didn't count it as a passenger.  With all of the stops (about every 5 minutes) it took us over five hours to reach Nkhota Kota.  We arrived in the early afternoon, recovered from the cramps from being squeezed up next to wheel wells and support bars, and were welcomed by the Salegians with a trip to the lake.